Slaughter of Danes

About 25 miles north of Aberdeen along the North Sea coast is a small village called Cruden Bay where the Cruden Bay Golf Club is found. It derives it’s name from Scots Gaelic, Croch Dain, literally slaughter of Danes (the second hole is called Crochdane). It seems that in 1052 a Danish expeditionary force landed here to meet the army of King Malcolm II but they didn’t fare too well. There is a small burn that flows though the links, for which the 6th hole is named, Bluidy Burn. Supposedly it ran red with the blood of the Danes for several days after the battle. I suffered a similar fate taking a 9 on Bluidy Burn, the 525 yard par five. It was straight into a gale, I swear. Cruden Bay is now a sleepy little bedroom community, or dormitory community in the vernacular of the Scots, as most residents work elsewhere in places such as Aberdeen or Fraiserburgh.


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There is evidence that golf was played on the links as early as the late eighteenth century but the present golf course, laid out in partnership by Old Tom Morris and Archie Simpson, opened in 1899 and has been only modestly altered since. The Great North of Scotland Railway company developed Cruden Bay as a tourist and golf destination and opened the 55 room Cruden Bay Hotel in 1899. Unfortunately the railway line closed in 1932 and the hotel several years later. However, the Cruden Bay Golf Club thrives.





I played there in 2007 on a brilliant, bright, sunny day without a cloud in the sky. The only drawback was a sustained wind that exceeded 30 mph. At times it was hard to stand. The golf was brutally hard, but the companionship and scenery was second-to-none. Two of our group took caddies who were asked if the wind was always so strong. Their answer was predictable. “No sir. Some days it’s much stronger.” There isn’t a tree be found, the hazards are just fescue and rye grasses, sand and gorse. The ground near the clubhouse is irregular and rolling, but nearer the sea the dunes must be close to one hundred feet high. The holes are routed through the valleys but some of the tees are up high on the dunes making for spectacular down hill shots.

One of the more memorable holes is 15, Blin’ Dunt, a 200 yard, downhill, par three with a blind tee shot over a dune. We asked the caddie about club selection and he recommended a 7 iron. Not being Bubba Watson, I asked him to clarify this choice. He stood by his selection and gave me the line. I was astounded to find my ball on the green. It was down hill and down wind, I guess. The three putt was most unfortunate.

The long par four (424 yards) seventeenth hole, Bilin’ Wallie, has a split fairway with a massive sand dune between them. I inquired about the best route and was told to choose one side or the other. I chose left and upon striking the ball the caddie exclaimed “Well played!” as it sailed down the fairway. Unfortunately when the ball struck the mound on the ground it kicked dead right into the long grass that covered the dune. I had no play but to pitch into the fairway.



That’s links golf. Sometimes you get a favorable bounce, sometimes not. Roll with the punches and just have a blast!



-ODL

The St Andrews Golf Club

Here in the States we typically think of a golf club as a place, not as the members. We think of it as being a specific golf course, and that any one course is only affiliated with one golf club. That ain’t necessarily so in Scotland. In a previous post I mentioned the two clubs that jointly manage the Leven Links. St Andrews in no different. The golf courses at St Andrews are not managed by the Royal and Ancient Golf Club in spite of their imposing clubhouse right behind the first tee. The St Andrews Links Trust was created by an act of Parliament in 1974 to insure wide access to the links golf courses by all. Members from a number of different golf clubs play golf on the St Andrews links.

One of these is the St Andrews Golf Club, located on Link Road across from the 18th fairway. A unique feature of this club is that they welcome golfers to become temporary members. For £5 you can become a member for a day and £25 will get you a week long membership. Will this membership get you preferred access on the Old Course? I’m afraid not, but it will get you access to the club restaurant and changing rooms if you make arrangements in advance. (email: sec@thestandresgolfclub.co.uk).

Another St Andrews option is the New Course Clubhouse (left). This facility was built in 1995 to provide changing rooms and dining options for visitors to the links and it's every bit as nice as upscale resort facilities in the States. Before it was built it was trunk slamming and a walk to the nearest pub to get a bite after your round, without a shower. Golfers are welcome to use the changing rooms at no charge, though you’ll need a £1 coin for a deposit for individual locker keys. For a £1.50 fee you can also use the lockers for overnight club storage (see the folks at the information desk on the bottom floor).

Many clubs make you a temporary member on the day of your round. You are awarded full privileges of the course and clubhouse, including use of the lockers, showers, and lounge bar. If you remember to bring a jacket and tie you just might get invited into the members dining room. Be aware that most clubs have a dress code typically described as ‘smart casual’, consistent with private clubs in the US. No jeans or athletic shoes, shirts must have collars, no athletic shirts (football jerseys etc.). You can’t go wrong with a golf shirt (± sweater or vest), khaki pants, and leather shoes. Remember to remove your hat when entering the facility. If you respect the rules of their club you will be treated very well indeed.

ODL


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Scotscraig Golf Club

Just ten miles north of St Andrews is found Scotscraig Golf Club which dates to 1817, believed to be the thirteenth oldest golf club in existence. Originally the club competitions were to be contested in three rounds of their six holes. However in 1835 the club was abandoned for 52 until 1887 when the club was reconstituted and the original six holes were extended to nine. The clubhouse was built in 1896 and in 1923 the course was extended to eighteen holes and redesigned to it’s present form by none other than James Braid.

The clubhouse is on the small side, not overbearing. It is painted white and the clubs symbol, a mounted knight with shield and lance, is displayed on the front. The pro shop was small and crowded but the staff couldn’t have been nicer. I haven’t played this course since 2007 and my recollections of it are incomplete, there was no journal that year. I remember it as a quirky layout, part links, part heathland, part parkland course. It’s not a true links course as it is removed from the sea, but much of the land has all the characteristics of linksland.
Also, it’s not a traditional links out and back course. They both nines loops back to the clubhouse like American courses. The ninth is a relatively short par 5 called Flagstaff. The green is near the clubhouse and has a large picture window that is way to close for comfort, especially if you happen to be slicing. I remember asking one of my playing partners where he aimed as he approached the ninth green. His response was “way to the left”, precisely how I approached that shot. It’s probably not that close at all, but it seemed that way the day we played.


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I remember the holes nearest the clubhouse as having broad fairways separated by gorse, bushes and heather. As one got farther from the clubhouse the whins and heather grew thicker and the holes got a little more peculiar. The second nine had a stretch of relatively open holes with a water hazard and could be easily mistaken for holes at the Augusta Country Club here in Maine. Like St Andrews, the seventeenth hole is also called Road.
Scotscraig is used for final qualifying when the Open is contested at St Andrews. On their website they drop the names of many famous players who have played or qualified there. It plays to 6670 yards for championships competitions, however visitors and members alike play it at 6310 yards. Believe me there is enough trouble that this yardage is plenty.
They have a very useful website (Scotscraig Golf Club) with all the information we need concerning fees, specials, dress code, pictures of all the holes including stroke saver information (yardage book), and the like. I found this Youtube video about golf courses of Fife that includes some video of Scotscraig. This is certainly a course we should consider during or visit.

ODL

Radox

Shower gel or bar of soap? I’m an old school guy and prefer the latter. Give me a bar of Old Spice or Irish Spring deodorant soap. However, in spite of this preference, one of the first things I’m going to do after we get settled at St Andrews is go to the Tesco on Market Street and buy some Radox for men. It’s a 2 in 1 shower gel and shampoo. The fennel and sea minerals formula is truly refreshing! I always bring a few bottles home. Learn more here! Radox

ODL

I couldn't help but add a little something to your post ODL,



-Young Dan Lux

North Berwick Golf Club

What can I say? This is one of the finest courses in all of Scotland, but because is doesn’t host the Open, few Americans have even heard of it. That’s really a shame because this course should certainly be on your must play list when you visit Scotland.

North Berwick is a picturesque small town on the southern side of the Firth of Forth, about 20 miles east of Edinburgh. On a clear day you are afforded views of Bass Rock and several other nearby islands, as well as Fife to the North. It’s pronounced Bear ick, and I learned this by chance before going there in 2007. One of our caddies told me I was the first American he ever met who pronounced Berwick properly. The golf course is a traditional links course in every sense of the word. Like the Old Course at St Andrews, the first tee and eighteenth green are essentially in town. The course plays away to the West and then back home.



North Berwick has three most interesting holes; two are peculiar, perhaps interesting is a better way to say is, and the other is world famous. The thirteenth hole is called The Pit and is a short par 4, 367 yards. After a good drive you will require just a short iron into the green. The interesting (or quirky) part is that the green is separated from the fairway by a dyke (stone wall). If you should push your approach shot slightly to the right, you could be on the wrong side of the dyke. You may only be able to play away from the hole with the hopes of getting a better chance on your next swing. You would never, ever see a golf hole designed this way in the US; truly lamentable.

The second offbeat hole is number sixteen, Gate. Again a short par 4 only 381 yards. The elongate, raised green is separated into two distinct halves but a valley about three feet deep and ten feet across. The valley is part of the green, mowed to green height, poses a significant putting challenge. You want to be on the correct half of the green. Our caddies told us that when attempting to qualify for the Open at Muirfield, Phil Michelson took an eight on this hole, and failed in his bid to qualify. I took four and didn’t really find it that hard.

The world famous hole is number 15, Redan. The name comes from a style of fortification. This hole is perhaps the most copied hole in the world. Pay attention during professional tournaments that are played on classic courses and you’ll likely hear mention of a redan hole. Redan is a par three, 192 yards, though I believe the tees were up quite a bit the day we played it. It has an elongated green, oriented oblique to the line of play, front right to back left with a bunker in front. Sounds like it would favor a draw, doesn’t it? However the green slopes front to back making it very difficult to hold. I parred this one as well, but you’ll have to get several pints and a few drams in me to hear the full story. Let’s leave this one alone. Here is a Youtube video from the course manager at North Berwick. How did you do with his accent?

In September of 1875 there was a challenge match at North Berwick; Old and Young Tom Morris versus the Park brothers, Willie and Mungo. During the match word came that Young Tom’s wife had gone into labor and that neither she nor the baby was doing well. The Morris’ were provided a schooner to take them back to St Andrews. Tragically they arrived and found that both had died. It is said that Young Tom was broken hearted and this four time Open champion died three months later on Christmas Day at the age of only twenty-four.

I like the club crest for North Berwick Golf Club almost as much as the one for Panmure. It has a sailing ship flying a Scottish Flag, some crossed golf clubs and a few other embellishments. At the bottom is the founding date, 1832. When I was there in 2007, I purchased a golf towel, with the club crest in color and gave it to a dear friend. I stopped in the pro shop in 2010 with the intent to buy one for myself and found they only had various two color versions, black and white, blue and white, not the full color style that had been available in the past. I regret that I didn’t buy two in 2007. They have a great website (http://www.northberwickgolfclub.com/) with lots of information about the course, greens fees, menus for the lounge bar, dress code and the like.
Lastly another Youtube video, this one from Hidden Links Golf Tours, provides some more background about the west link and the North Berwick Golf Club.

ODL


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If you simply can't wait to go to Scotland

Don't fret, Scotland will come to you...

Later this month the Caledonia Society of Arizona is hosting the 47th Annual Scottish Highland Games!

Should be loads of fun and although I'll miss the first day (I'll be in Cancun for work) I will definitely be in attendence for the second day!

-YoungDL

Waterproofs

Waterproofs: in North America we tend to call them rain gear. I’d venture to say most American golfers don’t even own waterproofs. Why bother? If it rains, don’t play. Wait until tomorrow. That’s not an option in Scotland, because you don’t know when the next sunny day will come. If it rains the Scots just suit up and go, make the best of it!

Scotland has the reputation for always being cold and rainy, but that’s just not fair. Scotland is cold in comparison to an American summer, but at least for the northern part of America, Scotland is more mild during the winter. Now the chill in the summer would be no issue for hearty individuals who live in four season regions like Maine and northern Ohio. Only if you have a disorder like thin blood, related to living in an oppressively hot environment like Phoenix, would you find the summer in Scotland even the slightest bit unpleasant.


So what’s the truth about rain and Scotland. It can be rainy, no doubt. However, it’s not as rainy as you might expect. In the US the rain often comes in torrential downpours, whereas eastern Scotland often gets more frequent, light showers. St Andrews gets about half as much rain as Bangor, Maine. In 2007 during eight rounds of golf, it only rained on three holes. That’s two percent of the time. By the time you got your waterproofs on, it was time to take them off. In 2008, it didn’t rain at all during our seven rounds, although there was light rain at other times. It probably rained 25% of the time during the four rounds in 2010.

So the message is to get yourself some good waterproofs before you go to Scotland, and then hope you don’t need them. If your going ‘across the pond’ to enjoy golf on the links you can’t sit out because of a little rain. I’d feel cheated if there weren’t some adverse conditions. It’s certainly somewhat difficult to put rain pants on during the round, so a good solution is to put them on before the round. Just wear them over shorts or light trousers. Often that extra layer helps keep the chill at bay. Then stuff your rain jacket in your bag, just in case.

ODL

Panmure Golf Club

Now to the many readers of Lux Golf Pilrimage, you have probably noticed a pattern. Weekends are about a golf course, midweek something else. This will end eventually as I’ll run out of golf courses about which I have any personal knowledge long before I run out of other stuff I can philosophize about.

This week we are leaving Fife and crossing the Firth of Tay to Angus. Here we will find many great courses along the coast, the most famous of which is Carnoustie. However the subject of today’s blog is Panmure Golf Club It is situated between the fine courses at Monifieth and Carnoustie. Founded in 1845, it was laid out on land leased from Lord Panmure, thus the name. The original architect is unknown but the present design is largely unchanged since significant modifications in the 1930s based on the recommendations of James Braid.


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My favorite part of the club’s storied history concerns Ben Hogan. Mr. Hogan made only one trip to Britain to compete in the Open. It was in 1953, that glorious year in which he won the US Open, Masters and Open tournaments. Mr. Hogan was unaccustomed to the smaller British ball and to the peculiarities of links golf. So he arrived at Carnoustie several weeks early. Remember he didn’t fly on a jumbo jet, he took an ocean liner. Talk about a time commitment. His practice times became common knowledge and consequently were drawing large crowds. To escape the spectators and media at Carnoustie, Mr. Hogan asked if he could practice at Panmure Golf Club where he was warmly welcomed. The conditions here were virtually identical to Carnoustie. He used the seventeenth fairway and green as a practice area. Finding the greens weren’t as fast as those at Carnoustie he asked if he could cut the seventeenth green shorter, to match the pace at Carnoustie. He was granted permission and it is said that when he was done mowing, he thoroughly cleaned the mower before returning it.

He played a round with the club secretary and commented on his fondness for the sixth hole but pointed out that a bunker on the front right side of the green would appreciably strengthen the hole. Shortly thereafter a bunker was constructed that is still referred to as ‘Hogan’s bunker’. The hole is named ‘Hogan’; what else could it be called? Mr. Hogan went on to win at Carnoustie and following that great victory he was asked what was his favorite hole. He responded it was the sixth, at Panmure!

The sixth is a delightful hole, a dogleg left that plays to 414 yards from the back tees. It offers classic risk-reward elements. If you limit your drive to 250 yards or less, there is a broad landing areas, shared with the seventh hole. From here you need a long shot into a slightly elevated green guarded by Hogan’s bunker. However, if you choose to drive beyond this landing area where the fairway narrows considerably, you’re rewarded with a much shorter approach to the green.

Sorry I have no photos of the course as it was a dreary day when we played. It has aspects similar to links, parkland and heathland courses. There are holes like ‘Hillocks’ (#8) that have a true links feel, but others like ‘Pines’ (#3), seem more heathland or parkland.. However the only labels that needed is that it is an enjoyable and challenging course. Coming inward on holes like 14 or ‘Lucky Daddy’ you’ll see high speed trains flying by on the rails to the right. I recently found this Youtube video about Pamure from the folks at Hidden Links Golf Tours.

Another thing I really like about Panmure is the club’s symbol or crest. Club crests may be simple or complex and often take into account some historical aspect of the club, town or region, and often the date that the club was founded. At Panmure it’s a simple inverted scallop shell with the date 1845 across the top. I regret that I didn’t buy a golf towel or jumper (sweater) when I was there in 2008.

To learn more about Mr. Hogan I recommend ‘Ben Hogan ‘An American Life’ by James Dodson. If you are a fan of Mr. Hogan like myself it’s required reading. To learn about Panmure go to their website: www.panmuregolfclub.co.uk .

ODL

Auchlea B&B and Fiona Garvie

In the fall of 2002 I spent three months working at the Scottish Universities Environmental Research Centre. Well, I didn’t work the entire time. Suzie joined me in Scotland me for a little over two weeks, and one of those was spent in Dornoch, my favorite village in the world. We rented a self-catering bungalow for the week. Among other things, we golfed at Royal Dornoch, toured Dornoch Cathedral, went to the Glenmorangie distillery, and shopped at the Dornoch Jail, a trendy, upscale shop located in of all things the former Dornoch jail. Suzie eyed a beautiful necklace and after we headed back to Glasgow she regretted that she didn’t buy it. Immediately I knew it would be the perfect Christmas gift, but it would require that I go back to Dornoch, and as long as I was there I’d would have to play Royal Dornoch again. I’ll stop at nothing to make her happy.

As I planned my trip I called several B&B’s in Dornoch before I spoke with Fiona. When I asked if she had any vacancies she told me to quit fooling around. I was surprised but it turned out that she thought I was her cousin from Canada playing a practical joke. I finally convinced her that I was really looking for a room and booked it. I arrived after dark on a Friday in November. I checked in and went down to the 1 Up restaurant for dinner. Saturday I played Tain Golf Club and bought the necklace. Upon returning, I showered and got ready to go out to dinner. Auchlea has a common room where I first watched the Scotland versus Romania international rugby match. Then the inquisition began. I was joined by Fiona’s husband John. He is headmaster at the local school and was curious to know more about what I did and what brought me to Dornoch. To make an already long story shorter, the Garvies invited me to join the family for dinner. They made me feel right at home and since then I consider them my friends.

I’ve been back to stay at Auchlea several times, during the 2007 trip with Don, Greg and Ed, also last year with Suzie and Dave and Robin McMahon. Fiona (in the middle) had heard quit a bit about Suzie and was quite eager to meet her. During breakfast, Fiona asked if she could join us as she ate her breakfast. Of course! She said that she felt unprofessional as an innkeeper. Poppycock! It was as though she was part of our group. It’s always a pleasure to stay at Auchlea and see Fiona and John if he really still lives there.

I haven’t seen John since 2002. Fiona swears he still exists and that he’s always at work. I’ll take her at her word. Since I first visited Auchlea, Fiona has won several awards for outstanding service. One even involved meeting Prince Charles and she has a photo to prove it. If we get to Dornoch, we have to stay at Auchlea.

Though this is my best experience at a Scottish B&B, there are many other great examples. Hazel and Laurie Crane at Burness House in St Andrews treated us well and Hazel taught us the ropes about tee times on the various Links Trust courses. In Inverness Margaret and Angus Noble and their miniature Schnauzer Archie at Glendoune B&B treated us well, directed us to great restaurants and Angus gave us detailed directions to Cruden Bay. B&B’s are great places to stay because you get to know the people who are so friendly and helpful.


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